ISPO Textrends Jury Meeting – Autumn/Winter 16/17

An increase in participants and a busy day for the jury of textile professionals

The third ISPO Textrends jury meeting took place and it was clear that the international array of participants have upped their ante as color, texture and structures all shone through offering a new and refreshing direction as the previously released trends were realized. With over 380 products to judge, the jury members, comprised of industry professionals, spent the day analyzing and touching the latest developments for Autumn/Winter 16/17.

 

Hansi Heckmair

ISPO Textrends is fast becoming a popular concept for the industry with an additional 48 new companies sending in their latest developments to be judged, 46 per cent more companies than last year, which in turn led to 47 per cent more products that had to be judged.

BASE LAYERS

A balance between natural and synthetic fibers delivered a super light touch. Lightweight performance pushed through with weights varying from 90 gms to 250 gms with high compression. With soft touch crucial for next to skin base layers, multi blends made the best of both worlds with single jersey through to double knits. Polypropylene kept popping up as a key component enhancing the lighter with fabrics as well as bringing an eco element to the table. Pique structures bought added function and double jersey including a mélange face and bonded mesh back delivered a traditional look with a twist.

SECOND LAYER

For second layers surface volume came into play as brushed and sponge-like surfaces featured. Playing with contrasting textures and tones, it was clear to see that the technical side of fabrics is no longer left untouched, instead printing, bonding and just simple brushing is creating a wider flexibility on the garment design front.

OUTER LAYER

Wovens from ultra light flat ripstops with tonal or contrasting colored prints featured alongside plain weaves incorporating contrasting yarns in creating special effects. A stronger element of fashion and function features with classic satins with high tenacity and through to changeant effects that reacted to the light. Contrasting bonded fabric in 3-layer components eliminated the need for lining while reflective prints worked a treat in updating basic lightweight twills.

High function and performance still features, but it is the lighter weight qualities that caught the jury members’ attention. Outer layers are becoming incredibly light ranging from 54 gms to 90 gms but still delivering function and protection to the wearer.

The SOFT EQUIPMENT category featured high tenacity and reflective elements, while in the TRIMS sector reflective aspects and rainbow colored drawstrings in stretch and rigid qualities added extra detail. Heat transfers incorporated a new reflective offering, giving brands the opportunity to add a unique aspect to garments, anti slip and gripper textured effects also featured.

Hansi Heckmair

ACCESSORIES

Illuminated and reflective zipper pullers offered a unique finish and as with the fabrics more detail was included as lacquered colored and printed zipper tape also featured. Waterproof and holographic applications delivered a new uniqueness to the category combined with heat transfer applications with embedded RFID chips to reflective transfers.

One area that caused a stir was the INSULATION category as both synthetics and natural ingredients featured. New developments featured lightweight natural fibers from wool, camel hair through to cashmere offering and alternative insulating element to the traditional polyester and down options. Anti microbial polyester featured with some entries pursuing a hybrid approach teaming traceable duck down with polyester. Mineral embedded polymers also enhanced the function of traditional synthetics in delivering lighter weight insulation with a greater degree of warmth.

Hansi Heckmair

MEMBRANES & COATINGS

This season’s top colors as featured in the trends came to light amongst the traditional neutral and classic sportswear tones. With membranes and coatings one of the biggest categories at the jury meeting, new for the season was milky lamination and multi functional membranes, including reflective membranes and new coating applications on jersey bases.

The final results of the jury meeting will be revealed at newly extended ISPO Textrends forum in Hall C2 in February. For all product developers and designers it is an essential stop to view the latest developments, hand picked by the international professional jury.

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